Hey All,

I will have to post this blog at a later date, as unfortunately we lost all our photos from here and I am awaiting photos from friends.

Will let you know when I get it done.
​Rissy

​

Post Leon, we headed to a beach area at Jiquillio on the north east Pacific coast of Nicaragua. We actually ended up spending time there on two seperate occasions, so I will complete one blog following this one.

Unfortunately, as I have stated before, our camera was stolen, and we lost quite a lot of photos from this area of the trip. The ones we do have are compliments of Mike's phone and from Britt and Fiona, 2 fellow travelers who were kind enough to share their photos with us.

MATAGALPA:

Matagalpa is a small village in the mountains of Nicaragua. It is an area that produces coffee, cacao and handicrafts. The drive there took us through varied terrain, from the dry coast to the lush countryside and mountains. 
We headed to Finca Esperanza in the mountains above Matagalpa. The Finca is beautiful and lush, with hiking trails, a garden and coffee crops. We were able to camp in the parking area and utilize the facilities and common areas. It was a great place to relax and it was nice to have cool mornings and nights after the heat of the coast.

Whilst there we completed a couple of hiking trails, and generally relaxed. We met Britt, a very dynamic and free spirited American who was working at the Finca and teaching yoga.
We also spent time with Fiona, an intelligent, well rounded and impressive individual who is an engineer at NASA, who had spent a year teaching english in Nicaragua and had returned to visit her collegues and friends and to explore some more of Nicaragua. She has promised to show us around the Houston Space Centers mission control, when we can arrange a visit there. Definately on our "to do" list.

A definate highlight was finding a red eyed green tree frog in the trees at the Finca. Keira got to hold it, which was an amazing experience. She is so brave, and was not phased at all when it jumped on her face! She simply took it off and laughed.

THE FOLLOWING BEAUTIFUL PHOTOS WERE TAKEN BY FIONA: THANK YOU

RED EYED GREEN TREE FROG:
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A definate highlight was finding a red eyed green tree frog in the trees at the Finca. Keira got to hold it, which was an amazing experience. She is so brave, and was not phased at all when it jumped on her face! She simply took it off and laughed.

CHOCOLATE TOUR:

AHHHH!! We finally got to do a chocolate tour at El Castillo del Cacao (the castle of chocolate). The factory is owned by 3 foreigners, but run by 2 local women who produce 300 bars of chocolate a day. We learnt all about the chocolate making process. Many steps at this small operation are still completed by hand with minimal machines. The bags are individually cut with scissors and the labels are pasted on with a glue stick! Keira was able to help with glueing a label on a bar. And of course the best part was the chocolate tasting and getting to buy bars of chocolate. We did buy some chocolate for presents but sorry these will not be making it back!
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​SOMOTO CANYON

SOMOTO CANYON is a beautiful canyon through which winds the Coco river. 
Our visit to the Canyon was somewhat limited due to most of the canyon being only accessible by swimming through the cold water of the river and through long bouts of hiking. Keira would have been able to do this, but we questioned how enjoyable it would have been for her. So instead we did a short walk, a boat ride and scaled some rocks to access the first part of the canyon. We found a beautiful waterhole to swim in. It was really cold but refreshing and we had the place to ourselves.

The unfortunate thing was that a huge amount of garbage has collected around the first part of the canyon. We were so disappointed. You are unable to go into the depths of the canyon without a guide, and the guides have established a co-operative. We would have hoped that they would clean up the garbage, to protect the area and their livelihood.

We camped one night in the area of the canyon, on a beautiful grassy patch right by the river. It was very tranquil, and the stars at night were spectacular.

​

CHANGE OF PLANS:

Our plan had been to cross the border into Honduras from Somoto Canyon, however Mike had received a lot of work from the USA which was great, but he required 7- 10 days of solid work time.
Honduras was an unknown for us. We would have 3-4 days of long travel to get to a secure location and Mike had a deadline to meet. We did not know how much internet access we would have which is essential for Mike's work. We needed to be somewhere that would be safe for Keira and I, and somewhere that we could entertain ourselves for 7-10 days whilst Mike worked.

After a lengthy discussion we decided to head back to Jiquillilo to Rancho Esperanza which met all of our criteria for the next 10 days.

DRIVING IN THIRD WORLD COUNTRIES:

We left the canyon around noon, and stopped in Esteli to grocery shop, and upgrade our "claro" data plans. We had about 5-6 hours of driving and knew that the last part of the trip would be driven in the dark.
One of our rules for the trip is "not to drive at night" and we take this seriously. We have only driven at night about 5 times on this trip, and it has been out of necessity and usually for just an hour after sunset. 
We discussed our options and decided to drive through, knowing it would be only 1 hour  of night time driving and that it was on familiar roads.
We made excellent time, and were only an hour away when darkness hit. By that time we were on country roads, so less traffic. What we had to be alert about was the endless bicycles hugging the edge of the road, the people wandering along the road edges on their way home, all of whom were dressed in dark colors and some of whom were obviously drunk. It was definitely a tiring drive.

We were so pleased to be back at Rancho Esperanza and we were welcomed by friends we met on our previous visit.

LEON VIEJO (OLD):
​
Leon Viejo is the old city founded in 1524 but abandoned a century later in 1610 after being hit by a series of earthquakes. The city was then buried under volcanic ash when Volcano Momotombo erupted. We made a detour to visit the ruins on our way to Leon city. There wasn't a lot to look at, but it was interesting to see the roofs of the houses that are now just above ground.

​NOTE: OUR CAMERA WAS STOLEN AT THE BEACH ( WILL FILL YOU IN LATER REGARDING THIS) AND WE LOST A LOT OF OUR PHOTOS, WE WERE LUCKY THAT MIKE HAD TAKEN A FEW PHOTOS ON HIS PHONE OF THIS AREA.
​

LEON:

Leon was founded in 1610 when old Leon was abandoned. The city served as the capitol during the colonial period. It is similar in some ways to Granada but less touristy and many of the buildings remain unrenovated. It is also very hot.
We were lucky to find a hostel with a pool. We enjoyed walking around the streets for the afternoon. We visited a french bakery recommended by fellow travelers that was actually very disappointing. The cakes were average as were the lunches, not our favorite french bakery of the trip!

​BASILICA DE LA ASUNCION - CATEDRAL

The other highlight was visiting the cathedral and walking on its roof. Strange you may think and we did also until we did it. The cathedral itself does not look particualrly special from the ground, but once on the roof, the starkness of its white domes and the shadows they create make it beautiful. 
​
You have to remove your shoes to complete the walk so as not to mark the paintwork, but in return the soles of our feet were covered in white dust.
​

At this point we were done with being in towns and were anxious to return to the coast. We stocked up on supplies and a "claro" (phone company in Central/Sth America) card for data so we could access internet and headed to Playa (beach) Jiquilillo, and Rancho Esperanza, where stayed for about 5 days and then returned for an additional 11 days.

CLASSIC QUOTE FROM KEIRA:

" DAD WILL YOU STOP STEALING MY INTERNET!" - In many hostels your ability to access the internet and the speed of downloads is affected by how many other people are using the internet at the time. Mike and Keira often compete for internet when we are at hostels. 
We have learned a sneaky trick of locating the router in a hostel and secretly turning it off and back on again to kick other people off!! Thanks for that trick Gerrett!!
​

​Granada is a very beautiful city situated on Lake Nicaragua. It is Nicaragua’s oldest city and is known for its colorful buildings, beautiful churches and its architecture. It would be our last destination to visit before Murphy headed back home to the USA.
 
On our way to Granada we took a side trip to the town of Masaya to visit the artisans market. The market itself was interesting, although the products were mostly trinkets geared to tourists. We bought Keira a doll for her international doll collection but nothing else.
Unfortunately Keira ate a Tiramisu cake (apparently loaded with caffeine and maybe some dodgy cream, which we did not know at the time) and became ill. It took her few days to recover. Needless to say Tiramisu will not be on her favorite food list!

​We really enjoyed our time in Granada. Murphy and I spent an afternoon wandering the streets, taking photographs and enjoying the atmosphere. Although touristy it still holds a certain charm.
 

PERCEPTIONS OF NICARAGUA:

​It is interesting how your perceptions of a country can change as you spend time in it. Before coming to Nicaragua we were thinking we would avoid Managua at all costs, being a capitol city in an unknown country. However after a week in Nicaragua, we could see that the media has once again focused on negative aspects of the country and that Nicaragua is quite safe.
We noted that the roads in Nicaragua are in good condition and actually very well maintained. We assume that like Ecuador the new roads are attributable to the Chinese. Ecuador has sold off the oil rites to some of the Amazon jungle to the Chinese and in return the Chinese have provided money and resources building new road systems, in Ecuador. China is currently building a Chinese canal through Nicaragua that is going to dwarf the Panama Canal. Hopefully some of the generated profits will filter down to the Nicaraguan people.
 
Our drive to the airport in Managua was certainly busy, but the roads in Nicaragua are really good, and our previous experiences of driving in big cities in Sth America definitely helps. We were all extremely sad to say goodbye to Murphy. We had a really good time together, with an ease of a long and strong friendship. Keira adores Murphy, and really enjoys spending extended time with our friends, and hearing stories of our friendship prior to her existence. There were many statements of “boo hoo, Murphy has left”.
 
Being in Managua we took the opportunity to get a new car battery, as ours was obviously not charging, as we were still having some problems starting Priscilla.


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​MURPHY's IMPRESSIONS OF THE TRIP: (in his words)

I learned that the Gypsie lifestyle is fantastic, free and unteathered - you go where the wind takes you, but it is NOT easy, especially with a (wonderful) 5 year-old. Most need to plan every last detail of their journey, and know that all has been prepared for their stay ahead of time. Mike, Marissa and Keira feed off the unknown, and all of the encounters that come with an unscripted journey. Most of what I saw and experienced with my friends could never be recreated in a vacation package. It was real. You get much closer to people and cultures than you ever could otherwise. You aren’t “served” by locals, you live amongst them. It was unique. And the stories and challenges are ours alone. When you cross paths with fellow “Overlanders” you feel like the stars aligned to place you on this same pinpoint, at the exact same time, with people from any corner of the  globe. And yet you share the same sense of adventure, kinship and welcoming. You know why the other’s there. You’re Overlanders. Pretty special.

LIST OF FIRSTS:

Murphy did many things for the first time on this trip, here is his list:
1/ first time visiting Central America- Costa Rica and Nicaragua
2/ first time sleeping in a tent
3/ first sunset over the ocean
4/ first land border crossing
5/ first time having my nails painted
6/ first time meeting Keira
7/ first time seeing monkeys, sloths, macaws, iguanas and crocodiles in the wild.
8/  first time waking up to A Howler monkey alarm,
9/  first sarong (they’re not just for girls anymore),
10/ first parrotfish dinner.

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​MORE OF GRANADA:
 
We continued to stay on in Granada a few more days for Keira to recover, Mike to get some work done and to explore the surrounding area.
 We did a horse and carriage ride at dusk, which took us around the city to see the various churches and sites. The most interesting thing was witnessing the locals going about their nightly chores and settling in to enjoy their evening. Many would be seated on rocking chairs on the pavement outside their homes watching their televisions or chatting about the day’s events. The locals were trying to get some relief from the heat and relax after their busy day.
 

VOLCANOES AND LAKES:

Nicaragua is a landscape of volcanoes and Lakes. It seems everywhere you look there is a volcano in site.

​We did a day trip to Laguna de Apoyo and to the Masaya Volcano. The volcano is really interesting to visit, as it is active and continually smoking. Only in a third world country would you be able to drive your car up to the crater edge of an active volcano. It was slightly amusing and a little disturbing that they made you park your car facing forward. We could only guess that this was for a quick get away if the volcano decided to erupt??!!!!
 

RISS, MIKE AND KEIRA:
HIGHLIGHTS/CHALLENGES OF THIS AREA:
MOST VALUED POSSESION: a new battery
BEST EXPERIENCE: Mike- seeing the smoking volcano/looking around Granada; Keira- seeing the smoking volcano/getting my new doll; Riss- seeing the smoking volcano/looking around Granada
MOST CHALLENGING EXPERIENCE: Mike- dealing with car problems; Keira- being sick- I hate caffeine; Riss- Keira being sick
BEST FOOD DISCOVERY: Mike- steak at a good restaurant, Keira- not Tiramisu/sushi rolls; Riss- sushi rolls
BEST CAMPING SPOT: hotel with ac and semi hot shower
 
 
 
 MURPHY:
GRANADA:
HIGHLIGHTS/CHALLENGES OF THIS AREA: Highlights: The colors!
MOST VALUED POSSESION: My camera. You can’t take a bad picture there. 
BEST EXPERIENCE: Exploring the city with Riss. Dinner out with three of my best friends. 
MOST CHALLENGING EXPERIENCE: Just some crazy, screaming man charging me and Riss. With a rock.
BEST FOOD DISCOVERY: Mocha Frappuccino!
BEST CAMPING SPOT: Hotel with AC!!!
 
 
 
 
 


​

Nicaragua is our tenth country to visit on this trip. We were eager to explore Nicaragua as we have been hearing great things about the country. The border crossing we were not looking forward to as we had heard of it taking 5 hours to cross with many hassles involved.

BORDER CROSSING:
​ 
We headed to the border at 6am to be there when the border opened. We encountered the usual long line of trucks parked alongside the road. It can take 1-3 days for them to clear their load and cross the borders. We now know to bypass them and head for the migration office.
There were many people who had the same idea of getting to the border early, as there were about 80 people already in line. After crossing so many borders, we know the process we have to go through. The challenge is finding the exact building in which to complete the necessary paperwork.
First on the list is obtaining an exit stamp in your passport, this time for Costa Rica. Then we have to hand in our temporary import permit for the vehicle so they know we have left the country with the vehicle and have not sold it, which would incur import taxes. Finding this building proved to be a challenge and required us walking some 100 meters in the opposite direction. All clear to leave Costa Rica we headed across “no mans land”, a section of road that is in between both countries, to complete our entry into Nicaragua.
We had heard that there were many steps involved, so instead of trying to negotiate the process ourselves and loosing hours of time, we hired a helper for $20 USD. They basically know the system and pay a little bit of their tip to the officials at each point to get the paperwork through quickly. So we got our passports stamped with entry for 90 days, then we had to secure car insurance, get the temporary import permit and have the vehicle inspected by a customs officer. Although we got 90 days on our personal visa entry, they only allow 30 days for the car to be in the country. The process all went relatively smoothly, and within a 2 hours window we had completed the crossing and were officially in Nicaragua.
 
There were a few shouts of yippee that echoed through the car. Murphy who had just experienced his first land border crossing, observed the change in stress levels as we made this transition. The worst of the border crossings is the “unknown”.
 
It wasn’t long before we got glimpses of our first volcano. We headed to Lake Nicaragua to have some breakfast and get a better view of the vista. We had a paddle in the lake, which was a little relief from the escalating heat.

FIRTS IMPRESSIONS OF A NEW COUNTRY:

In the first half hour of driving we were already seeing changes, more motorcycles on the road, more horse and carts and tuk tuks (motorcycle like taxis). It felt like a different country, unlike Costa Rica, which felt extremely western.
 
We did our usual ATM run, acquired groceries, a “claro” card to create a wifi hot spot, and we were on our way to the beach.

POPOYO:
 
We had chosen Popoyo as our beach location hearing from fellow travelers that it was not touristy and a good beach. We read on ioverlander app that a hostel called Café Con Leche (coffee with milk) was allowing camping and overlanders to access their facilities. The owner Mark is Canadian and is an overlander himself. The atmosphere at Café con Leche was very relaxed. It had a kitchen, common areas, hammocks and a pool. It was the perfect place to rest up for a few days. 

​We went swimming, had walks on the beach, generally hung out, and enjoyed the company of fellow travelers. I did my exercises on the beach in the mornings and Murphy did some meditating. 
 
Unfortunately the winds picked up, and Murphy had to abandon his tent for the sofa for a couple of nights. The property dogs that wanted to get in his tent also plagued him.

​FISH FOR DINNER:
​Mike made a homemade spear and the boys went spear fishing, which was not fruitful due to the murky waters. They did come back with a big fish, however it required buying it from the locals. Photos: by Michael Murphy

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BEAUTIFUL OCEAN SHOTS TAKEN BY MICHAEL MURPHY:
We were all captivated by the site of the pelicans as they swooped in formation across the water. It was breathtaking. Murphy took the opportunity to test out his waterproof camera and took some amazing shots of the pelicans and the surf. Below are these photos.

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MEETING NEW PEOPLE:
One of the really great things about traveling is meeting interesting people. At Cafe con Leche we got to hang out with fellow travelers sharing stories, meals and a few drinks. Conversations usually end up in discussions of future plans for travel and life. It is a really therapeutic (for want of a better word) to be able to discuss your hopes and dreams for the future in a non-judgemental environment. It often helps you to form new ideas or thoughts or to solidify your plans and resolve.
We had the pleasure of spending time with 2 Aussie girls, Tash and Beau. Both girls were brilliant with Keira. Tash (Natasha Parker) is a professional musician and spent time with Keira playing ukuleles and composing little songs. (Visit: tashparker.com  or search for Waking Up by Tash Parker on iTunes.)
 An american couple, Danny and Travis received dinosaur and butterfly tatoos from Keira's fake tattoo collection. They are returning to the Maine area to begin a crab fishing business, captaining their own boat. Sam, a seasoned traveler visiting Nicaragua for a break, celebrated his birthday with us. Rolf, Bettina and their dog Nera are fellow overlanders, and although we didn't get to spend a lot of time together we shared stories and information, hoping our paths would cross again. And then there was Leche, the little white puppy who liked to cuddle and who stole our hearts.
​

DISTURBING EXPERIENCE:
I had a very disturbing experience whilst on one of my morning walks. I came across a turtle laying her eggs. It was pretty special to see. Right up until I realized that the locals who were collecting the eggs were not taking them to protect them but were in fact going to fry them up and have them with some salsa. I was devastated.
Speaking to Mark, he said it was a regular occurrence and that there was nothing that could be done. The people here are so poor and uneducated about conservation and they do not see anything wrong with eating the eggs. For generations their families have been doing so.
 
Overall, we really enjoyed our time in Popoyo. It gave us all some much needed rest.
 

FUNNY QUOTE:
“Movies are actually real Daddy, it is what is in them that isn’t” – a quote from Keira when Mike told her movies were not real, trying to make her not scared of the content she may see.
 

HIGHLIGHTS/CHALLENGES OF THIS AREA

MOST VALUED POSSESION: hammocks
BEST EXPERIENCE: Mike-not drowning- had a near drowning experience in rough surf; Keira- playing with the puppy Leche/swimming in the pool; Riss- relaxing and being at the beach
MOST CHALLENGING EXPERIENCE: Mike- trying not to drown; Keira- saying good-bye to the little puppy, Leche; Riss- seeing the locals taking the turtle eggs to eat.
BEST FOOD DISCOVERY: Mike- mmm, big bottles of Rum/fresh fish, Keira- not fish- yuck; Riss- Mike’s cooking
BEST CAMPING SPOT: Popoyo, Café con Leche
 
 
MURPHY:
HIGHLIGHTS/CHALLENGES OF THIS AREA:
Challenge: Keeping out of the line of fire when Mike is “snorkeling” and packing a homemade spear gun. Highlight: Getting my toenails expertly painted by Keira.
 
MOST VALUED POSSESSION: Beer. My tent, and the rocks that held it in place, for a while…
BEST EXPERIENCE: Taking pix while simultaneously body surfing. The view from “Magnific Rock”
MOST CHALLENGING EXPERIENCE: My first land border-crossing (into Nicaragua).
BEST FOOD DISCOVERY: ParrotFish (that Mike “caught”)
 
BEST CAMPING SPOT: On the beach (right up ’til the tent blew away)
 
 

​Traveling with your own vehicle provides great freedom. It allows you to get to remote places, to cut travel times by half, to stop when and where you want, to sleep in the same bed each night, and essentially have your own home with you while you travel. The downside is that the endless miles take its toll on every car part. Dealing with car problems when you don’t have your local mechanic to trust can be extremely stressful.
 
Car problems have been no stranger to us; we have spent many hours with mechanics and have even camped out in 2 different mechanic workshops. So when Priscilla just refused to start, on our journey towards the Nicaragua border, our assessment and problem solving skills kicked into gear. Mike tried everything he knew, determining that it was electrically in nature. The positives were that we were at a gas station at a major intersection of 2 roads in Costa Rica and there was a tow truck business next door.
 
It is always so reassuring that when we have been in trouble that local people come to our aid to assist us in our moments of need. This occasion was no exception. The local mechanics contacted a nearby Toyota workshop, which then directed us to an electrical technician in the town of Canas (a 40 min drive away). Murphy, Mike, Keira and I piled into the front of the tow truck with Priscilla secured on the flat bed. On the way, we heard loud honking horns and people directing us to stop. The cover had blown off the roof top tent and Keira’s boogie board that was underneath had blown off. A motorist behind us had collected it from the road and followed us to return it. We had one happy girl with us!
 
The electrical technician determined he could fix the problem, which we knew had something to do with our alarm system, which had been giving us problems throughout the trip. Unfortunately he needed the vehicle overnight, which left us with no option but to stay in a roadside hotel for $70 USD per night. The hotel was very basic and we begrudged paying so much for a very basic room. The one saving grace was that we had hot water showers. Murphy couldn’t help but laugh at the noises of pleasure that escaped the bathroom as Keira and I took our first hot shower in many weeks.
 
The next day we were underway again, heading to Finca Canas Castillas, close to the Nicaragua border, for a much-needed rest.

​Finca Canas Castillas is a beautiful Finca (farm), run by a Swiss German couple. They have cabins, and have set up the place to meet the camping needs of overlanders. The property itself is set in an amazing location with hiking trails that follow the river and extend through the property with beautiful views. The wildlife is what makes the location so special. There is a crocodile that lives in the river, spider and howler monkeys in the trees, a wild adult sloth, bats living under the fireplace and in the trees, a variety of wildlife, chickens, turkeys, horses and best of all a baby sloth.

                                                                  HANGING OUT:

​The baby sloth had been rescued by Aggie, the owner of the Finca, when they had found the baby sloth on the forest floor. We learnt that sloths are not good mothers and will often abandon their children if they are unable to take care of them. The baby sloth was kept in a secure indoor enclosure during the night for protection against other animals, and in a fenced treed enclosure with the turkeys during the day. Aggie hopes to be able to release the baby sloth back into the wild when it is older and able to take care of herself. Aggie places food on tree branches and in places that the sloth has to work to get the food. She also tries not to handle the baby sloth directly but uses a towel as an interface between the sloth and herself. Keira was able to assist Aggie with the care and feedings, carrying the baby sloth to and from each enclosure. This is definitely one of the many highlights of Keira’s trip. We can highly recommend a documentary called “ A baby sloth called Velcro”, available on Netflix and a good resource for information about sloths and their plight.

                                                          THE BABY SLOTH:

​                                                                     THE MONKEYS:

​                                                                    THE TREES:

​We were planning to only stay one night at the Finca, but stayed 2. It was definitely a place we wish we had more time to spend.
 
After our second night, we headed to the Nicaraguan border at 5 am, wanting to cross early as we had heard the crossing was a bit challenging.
 
We had enjoyed our time in Costa Rica, spending time with our close friends and enjoying experiencing the wildlife up close, however we were eager to move on to a new and less expensive country.


​ROOSTERS:: OK, can someone please explain what is happening to the rooster populations of the world? Roosters throughout Sth and Central America seemed very confused, crowing extremely loudly not at dawn when I believe they are supposed to, but are starting at 4 am instead, when it is definitely still pitch black outside! And of course, like males in all species they have to strut their stuff trying to outdo each other by crowing louder than all the other roosters in a 10 km radius. There are many roosters’ lives that have been threatened during this trip. The walls of the tent are a little too thin to keep this crowing from piercing our sleep!
 
HIGHLIGHTS/CHALLENGES OF THIS AREA:
MOST VALUED POSSESION: a tow truck
BEST EXPERIENCE: Mike-Everything about the Finca ; Keira- taking care of the baby sloth  ; Riss- the baby sloth
MOST CHALLENGING EXPERIENCE: Mike- dealing with car problems; Keira- leaving the sloth/being car sick; Riss-dealing with car problems
BEST FOOD DISCOVERY: Mike-, definately not the Chinese food; Keira-nothing this trip, I was a little sick; Riss-nada/nothing
BEST CAMPING SPOT: Finca Canas Castillas

MURPHY:
HIGHLIGHTS/CHALLENGES OF THIS AREA: Priscilla’a flatbed ride. “Two Gypsies, One Princess, One New Yorker - One Hotel Room. Mike almost getting his personality shot off while peeing on a fence. The sounds girls (mom and daughter) make during their first hot shower in a loooooong time. Car alarms were going off outside.
MOST VALUED POSSESSION: Camera and hammock
BEST EXPERIENCE: Howler monkees, Spider monkees, 10’ Crocodile, The look on a 5 year-old’s face when she gets to carry a baby sloth. 
MOST CHALLENGING EXPERIENCE: Roosters!!!
BEST FOOD DISCOVERY: Rooster : )
BEST CAMPING SPOT: Right next to a baby sloth at Canas Castillas
 
 
 
 

​Monte Verde is a town in the cloud forest mountain area of Costa Rica, north of San Jose. It is a tourist town, known for hiking, and adventure sports such as zip lining or canopying.
 
We had heard mixed reports about the area, from “touristy” to a “must see and very unique”. Since we had never been to the area before we thought we should take a look. For us, we enjoyed our time there, but we all felt the area was nothing particularly special.
 
For a mountain town focused on outdoor activities we were surprised to find only one camping option in the area, at La Colina lodge. The lodge itself is in somewhat of a transition but Nancy the owner did open up the camping to us.
 
Often when we get to an area and begin looking for camping options, it can look quite bleak, but with perseverance we usually land a great spot. This was no exception, as the camping area was a grassy field with a great vista over the surrounding mountains. It was also out of the chaos of the main town but within walking distance to many attractions.
It also had indoor areas, and a kitchen.
 
Although the days were warm and sunny, as soon as the sun began to fade it got cold very fast. It was a bit of a shock to be in colder weather again. We had to bring out our sleeping bags, fleeces, winter hats and ponchos again. 


FYI:  a lot of the photos here are taken by Murphy. One regret of ours that we didn't buy a new camera before the trip, ours has seen many prior adventures and is dying a slow death!

Nancy the owner is very sociable, enthusiastic and has a wealth of knowledge about the surrounding area. She was brilliant with Keira, providing Keira with clay, and mosaic tiles for a craft project and books to read.

​

​Highlights of our time in Monte Verde: hiking in the cloud forest where we saw glimpses of a Quetzal (a beautiful bird known to this area) and a sloth (a blob in the distance); visiting a butterfly house that also had a big collection of insects; visiting “the Bat Cave”, a educational centre about bats; eating chocolates from a local chocolate shop; getting to play with baby piglets; chatting with Nancy and other travelers, and of course spending time with Murphy. 


​HIKING IN THE CLOUD FOREST

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​ FUNNY QUOTES OF THE TRIP:

“Yeti’s don’t poop.” – a quote from Keira during one of Mike and Keira’s early morning conversations in the tent.
 
“Put the Cat in the Bag!” – a quote from Murphy to Mike, which is probably better explained in person
 
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​So Monte Verde, a fun experience especially for Keira, but in our books, not a must see!
 

                                  

                                                  AMUZING STORIES:


MURPHY: After Murphy’s first night camping in the tent in Costa Rica in close proximity to a 3 year old boy and his parents, Murphy explained that he was woken up by a very loud and realistic sounding dinosaur toy at 5 am. Only after us pointing out the primitive sounding howls of the howler monkeys, did Murphy actually realize his mistake.
 
RISSY: Ok, so there are definite advantages to traveling like we do, one is not having access to a mirror for huge chunks of time, namely not being worried about how you look. However one of the disadvantages of traveling like we do is not having access to a mirror for huge chunks of time, namely that photos don’t lie! A woman we met in Samara whilst Keira was absent asked me “Does Keira have blonde hair like you?”  I thought this was a little peculiar because I definitely have brown hair, but I mumbled something in reply. It was only 2 days later when Constance a lovely lady from Texas allowed us to use her room for a proper shower that I glimpsed myself in a real mirror and was shocked to see a very tanned face and blondish hair. The highlights I had got done in Colombia months before had bleached with the sun, and in fact I did look quite blonde!!!!
 


HIGHLIGHTS/CHALLENGES OF THIS AREA:
MOST VALUED POSSESION: sleeping bags/warm clothes; Murphy: Mikes winter coat
BEST EXPERIENCE: Mike- hanging out at Nancy's place; Keira- visiting the butterfly house and getting to see all the insects; Riss- getting to watch my daughter jump up and down unable to contain her excitement as she got to learn about insects and got to hold them. Murphy- Cloud forrest, butterflies, exotic birds, bats, goats, baby pigs, more birds, cows in the road/ Finding a beautiful place to camp at La Colina Lodge when we were just about ready to set up on the side of a road.
MOST CHALLENGING EXPERIENCE: Mike-the roosters!; Keira- again saying good-bye to the dogs and animals but also to Nancy, she was a lot of fun to hang out with; Riss- being cold and trying to sleep with the early rising roosters. Murphy- Pitching tent on the path used by locals to bring milk via horseback into town each morning/Damn rooster chorus at 4am, and ants in the tent!!!
BEST FOOD DISCOVERY: Mike-yummy raison and apple gooey filled bread from Stella's bakery, Keira- chocolate croissants from the bakery; Riss- chocolates, there is definitely a trend here!  Murphy- MIke’s cooking, spicey chocolates, and gnawing on a loaf of raisin bread from Stella’s Bakery
BEST CAMPING SPOT: La Colina Lodge (on ioverlander)